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Oil Filter Shootout With Results

 

 
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Thumbs up The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)

 

 

 

TLDR: AMSOIL filters are a top tier filter if you don’t mind the cost. Royal Purple seems to be on par with the AMSOIL filters and if you can get them for cheaper, you may want to consider swapping out your AMSOIL filter for a Royal Purple. Purolator is a very strong second, if you don’t mind the shoddy construction. Stay away from Mitsubishi/DENSO if you can help it and WIX is a great middle of the road filter if you want reasonable price, very good filtration, respectable surface area and quality construction.



Introduction:

So, this epic thread came out of an initial discussion I had with kyoo and apagan01 regarding the recent AMSOIL change in their filter for the 4G63/4B11 motors. (Before you ask, yes they both use the exact same filter). I have to give credit where credit is due, so thanks to Robert J Tracy (river_rat on BITOG) for his wisdom and guidance during this test. Also, thanks to my wife for putting up with my insane ideas for the benefit of a bunch of gearheads she’s never met.

I pamper the hell out of my car with one hand and flog it hard on the track with the other. Not knowing if I’m running the best oil filter bothers me, especially since everyone in the oil filtration business wants to tell you that their product is the best.

I sent AMSOIL an email asking what had changed between these two filters and why. The answer was generally vague, but I was assured that the performance of the filter was the same. Sick of AMSOIL giving me the run around or directing me to the same old marketing literature each time I went to them with a technical question, I decided to take an existing Ea046 filter and compare it to the new Ea15k20 filter to see what I could find out with my naive eyes. To this day I still theorize that AMSOIL basically runs with the same filter until they can find another manufacturer to build them a filter to their spec for cheaper. All AMSOIL had to say about it was that they have three different manufacturers that they use and they are not allowed to divulge who that is, exactly.

After poking around on the intertubes, I really couldn’t find too much information about what would make one particular filter superior over another. After reading a whole lot of threads on BITOG (Bobistheoilguy.com), generally speaking, simply having a filter on your motor (even a crappy cellulose FRAM filter so long as the media is sealed properly inside the housing) extends motor life considerably.

There are some key factors at work here that need to be considered such as media type, contaminant capacity, filtration efficiency, surface area, filter construction and by-pass valve spring rating however.

I reached out to every manufacturer via email and telephone to get all of the specs I could for this thread. After explaining what my goals were for this test and information gathering, just about every manufacturer (with the exception of DENSO) was willing to work with me to get the data I needed for this.

The filters chosen here are based off of the most popular filters people have mentioned in the countless filter debate threads on EvoM. I went through them all and picked the top five filters and then added in a couple of my own.

I had been reading that AMSOIL filters were simply ‘rebranded’ Hastings or WIX filters, so in an effort to save money I decided I was going to run Hastings filters (and unfortunately spreading misinformation in the process by repeating this) and cut out the middle man. I assume to make their filters distinct in the market and to their spec, AMSOIL went into an agreement with Donaldson to purchase their Synteq media and rebrand it as AMSOIL ‘Nano-Fiber.’ Since Donaldson doesn’t sell extended life filters with Synteq media for passenger vehicles (I checked their site and they confirmed it via email) this prevents them from competing directly with AMSOIL in the extended oil change interval (OCI) oil filtration market space. I purchased the only Donaldson filter available for our cars, hoping it would be synthetic or at the very least a synthetic blend. This would have allowed me to save some money and just run a Donaldson filter. As you will see, this filter was not synthetic media.

Realistically, just about any one of the filters tested here should work just fine for your car so long as you follow a proper OCI based on car use/abuse. <- (See what I did there?) It is quite safe to extend your OCI out to 15,000 miles so long as you are running a high quality extended life filter that has sufficient surface area and can trap particulates of at least 10μm.



I’ve included some basic oil filter facts for reader clarity:

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Image courtesy of Robert J Tracy and used with permission


The Common ISO Test Types:

ISO 16889

A multi-pass filtration performance test with continuous contaminant injection for hydraulic fluid power filter elements; a procedure for determining the contaminant capacity, particulate removal and differential pressure characteristics; a test currently applicable to hydraulic fluid power filter elements that exhibit an average filtration ratio greater than or equal to 75 for particle sizes less than or equal to 25 µm(c), and a final reservoir gravimetric level of less than 200 mg/L; and a test using ISO medium test dust contaminant and a test fluid.

ISO 4548-12

is derived from the ISO standard for multi-pass filter testing (ISO 16889) which is based upon testing of hydraulic filters. This test requires filter manufacturers to determine the average particle sizes which yield Beta ratios equal to 2, 10, 75, 100, 200, and 1000, using the multi-pass test stand approach. The multi-pass test bench must contain On-Line Liquid Automatic Optical Particle Counters and calibrated using certified calibration fluid with a known particle size distribution. Particle counts are taken upstream and down-stream every minute of the test. The new standard gives a better interpretation of a filter’s overall performance.

What does the word micron (μm) mean?

The word micron is another term for micrometer (1 millionth of a meter). A micrometer is a unit of linear measure in the metric system used to measure distance from one point to another. It is used like the inch, foot, centimeter and millimeter to measure length, width or diameter of objects. Its scientific notation is μ. Some linear equivalents are 1 inch is 25,400 microns and 1 micron is .000039 inches.

Nominal vs. Absolute Filtration:

A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20μm or larger is nominally efficient at 20μm.

A filter is considered to achieve absolute filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove 98.7% of particles that size. So, if a filter can remove 98.7% of particles 20μm or larger, it achieves absolute efficiency at that micron level.

Current consensus on Bob is the Oil Guy.com is that 10-20μm particles cause the most wear.

Diameter of average human hair 70μm
Lower limit of visibility (naked eye) 40μm
White blood cells 25μm
Talcum powder 10μm
Red blood cells 8μm
Bacteria 2μm
Carbon black 0.6μm
Tobacco smoke 0.5μm



So, most filters you can source that are not considered high efficiency filters will probably not achieve absolute efficiency until the particulates hit around 30μm. Typically, high efficiency filters will achieve absolute efficiency to about 10μm and are nominally efficient to 5μm. The human eye can see to approximately 40μm, so we are talking some pretty small particles here. A FRAM will have a nominal micron rating around 33-40μm depending on the filter, with a WIX for the Evo having a micron Rating of 20μm. These are nominal ratings (50% efficiency). In comparison, the AMSOIL EA series is rated at 20μm absolute.

Some general rules of thumb regarding oil filters:

Filters with low capacity and high efficiency will tend to accumulate contaminants quickly and trip the by-pass value which means it’s no longer doing you any good. These filters should generally be changed every 5,000 miles for sure.
Filters with high capacity and low efficiency can hold a lot of contaminants, but will definitely not protect your motor to the same degree, as more particulates will be circulating through the motor.
Filters that are both low in capacity and efficiency will cause increased wear and shorter motor longevity if used for a prolonged period.

 
 

Last edited by golgo13; Mar 11, 2014 at 05:03 PM.

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Old Nov 22, 2012, 10:57 PM
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Filter specs:

Cellulose Media
WIX  
Manufacturer: WIX
Part Number: 57092
Media Type: Cellulose
Micron Rating: 20μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 14psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 330psi
Media Surface Area: 120 sq in
Pleat Count: 46
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: Mexico

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Hastings  
Manufacturer: Hastings
Part Number: LF402
Media Type: Cellulose
Micron Rating: 18μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 18-20psi
Flow Rate: 5gpm
Burst Pressure: 200psi
Media Surface Area: 120sq in
Pleat Count: 45
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA



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K&N  
Manufacturer: Champion Laboratories
Part Number: PS-1010
Media Type: Cellulose
Micron Rating: 20μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 11-17psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 300psi
Media Surface Area: 105 sq in
Pleat Count: 47
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA

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Donaldson  
Manufacturer: Donaldson
Part Number: P550162
Media Type: Cellulose
Micron Rating: 39μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 11-17psi
Flow Rate: 5gpm
Burst Pressure: 300psi
Media Surface Area: 113 sq in
Pleat Count: 56
Drain Back Value Material: Silicone
Country of Manufacture: USA

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Mitsubishi  
Manufacturer: DENSO
Part Number: 150-1010 (Mitsubishi# MZ690116)
Media Type: Cellulose
Micron Rating: 40μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 13psi
Flow Rate: *UNKNOWN*
Burst Pressure: *UNKNOWN*
Media Surface Area: 109 sq in
Pleat Count: 43
Drain Back Value Material: Silicone
Country of Manufacture: Thailand

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Blended Media
Mobil 1  
Manufacturer: Champion Laboratories
Part Number: M1-110
Media Type: Cellulose + Synthetic Blend (Polyester)
Micron Rating: 25μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 13psi
Flow Rate: 3gpm
Burst Pressure: 300psi
Media Surface Area: 105 sq in
Pleat Count: 49
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA

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Bosch  
Manufacturer: Purolator
Part Number: D3323
Media Type: Cellulose + Synthetic Blend
Micron Rating: 30μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 14-18psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 500psi
Media Surface Area: 64sq in
Pleat Count: 53
Drain Back Value Material: Silicone
Country of Manufacture: USA



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Purolator  
Manufacturer: Purolator
Part Number: PL14459
Media Type: Cellulose + Synthetic Blend
Micron Rating: 20μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 12-15psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 300psi
Media Surface Area: 102 sq in
Pleat Count: 61
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA

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Synthetic Media
Royal Purple  
Manufacturer: Champion Laboratories
Part Number: 10-2867
Media Type: Synthetic
Micron Rating: 25μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 11-17psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 600psi
Media Surface Area: 72sq in
Pleat Count: 32
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA


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AMSOIL  
Manufacturer: WIX
Part Number: Ea046 (deprecated)
Media Type: Nano-Fiber (Donaldson Synteq media)
Micron Rating: 20μm Absolute
By-pass Valve Rating: 14psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 330psi
Media Surface Area: 77 sq in
Pleat Count: 35
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: Mexico

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AMSOIL  
Manufacturer: Champion Laboratories
Part Number: Ea15k20
Media Type: Nano-Fiber (Donaldson Synteq media)
Micron Rating: 20μm Absolute
By-pass Valve Rating: 8-11psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 280psi
Media Surface Area: 56 sq in
Pleat Count: 32
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA

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Attached Thumbnails

The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)-a0cbc61a.jpg   The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)-p1020737_zps18e206c0.jpg  

 

Last edited by golgo13; Oct 17, 2014 at 10:10 AM.

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Old Nov 22, 2012, 10:59 PM
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A few things to keep in mind:

I don’t have the hundreds of thousands of dollars to purchase the same equipment the ISO testing group uses.

It is a single pass simple bench test using an equal contaminant to oil ratio per filter at room temperature with gravity drawing the filtrate through the media.

  • This is not a test to give percent efficiency at a certain particle size.
  • This test is not an official SAE or ISO test that filter manufacturers use to rate their oil filters.
  • This is just a simple bench test to give a visual comparison of how easily contaminants passed though the media elements with the oil, and approximately how easily cold oil passed through as well.


Every effort was made to keep things even and fair within the limitations of the testing procedure. I had no favorites going into the testing. I believe the results are quite reasonably valid and seem to correlate well with the comparative filter efficiency ratings given by the manufacturers who publish these ratings.

Obviously, this test will not include the same heat and pressure as found in the 4G63/4B11 motor, so take that into consideration.



The Goal:

To obtain a visual representation of single pass filter efficiency while keeping the testing parameters consistent between each filter within the scope of the test. Using a filtrate contaminated with particles at or below the size known to cause increased wear to the motor (10-20μm), we should visually see how much filtrate was allowed to pass through the media.



The Procedure:

Each filter was carefully cut open along the baseplate with a dremel using a cutting disc to extract the media without damaging it. Filters that were open on each end were sealed with water tight caulk and a sheet of clear acrylic to allow for oil to only enter the center tube by passing through the media.

Each filter was then placed in a beaker containing intentionally contaminated synthetic motor oil with a 50/50 mixture of flour 1-100μm and talc ~10μm. These filters were done twice prior to the final results you see below, as this was necessary to allow for the media to be completely saturated with oil and contaminants. Since some of the filters contain more surface area and media of different thicknesses, I wanted to make sure that each filter was completely saturated to allow for a more accurate sample.

The filtrate was stirred prior to filling the beaker and placing in the filter to ensure enough particulates were diffused through the oil as gravity and air pressure worked to push the filtrate through the media.

Each sample was collected using brand new 12″ sections of 3/16″ O.D. clear vinyl tubing with a syringe stuck into the opposite end. Once the center tube was filled at the same level as the surrounding filtrate, I gently stirred the contaminated oil in the center tube and then pulled on the syringe to draw a sample. I promptly plugged the business end of the tube with some nails I had previously cut in half and then the other end with the head of the nail.

Once plugged, each tube was cleaned and then hung to allow for gravity to pull the particulates to the bottom of the sample in each respective tube. The samples were allowed to sit for 48 hours prior to taking pictures of the piles of particulates.

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The Results:

Cellulose Media


WIX 57092
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NOTES: This seems to be the average amount of particulate for a cellulose media oil filter.

Hastings LF402
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NOTES: As with the WIX filter, this is average. Nothing to write home about.

K&N PS-1010
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NOTES: I guess you pay for the name when you buy K&N? I want a filter that works, not just a name. That amount of particulate looks pretty average to me.

Donaldson P550162
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NOTES: Disappointing filtration. I was hoping even with cellulose media that the Donaldson was going to perform better.

Mitsubishi/DENSO 150-1010
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NOTES: Lots of people trust OEM (Hell, I’m one of them) but after this test I’ll suggest something other than DENSO.

Blended Media


Mobil 1 M1-110
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NOTES: Lots of people swear by Mobil 1. Looks like average filtration to me. This coupled with the poor construction of the filter itself means I won’t be running this filter anytime soon.

Bosch D3323


NOTES: Filter sent to me by TommiM for testing. For a blend, it fell below the Purolator, but performed better than the Mobil 1. I would consider this to be an “average” filter and since it’s being marketed as a Distance Plus filter, I would have expected better filtration, personally. The Regional Manager I spoke to on the phone said this filter is good for 12,000 miles so take that FWIW.

Purolator PL14459


NOTES: Impressively low particulate amount here. The cellulose and synthetic blend looks to be doing its job.

Synthetic Media:


Royal Purple 10-2867


NOTES: Same construction as the other Champion Labs filters I tested, but the gentleman I spoke with on the phone claims it’s rated to withstand race conditions. The filtration was very good, on par with the AMSOIL filters I tested below. The wire mesh that lines the filter element is the exact same as that used in AMSOIL Ea15k20, which isn’t surprising since they’re both made by Champion Labs.

AMSOIL Ea046


NOTES: That old adage of, “You get what you pay for” couldn’t be any closer to the truth. Excellent filtration for sure.

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NOTES: The wire holding this filter media was a bit thinner than their newer stuff, but the media was quite durable. Not as durable as cellulose, but it didn’t fall apart when I cut out a sample with a razor blade. The down side to having this wire mesh, is that it takes up room inside the filter which would probably account for the smaller surface area of this filter when compared directly to the cellulose media version of the same WIX filter.

AMSOIL Ea15k20
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NOTES: Like its older brother above, this filter does its job for sure. I just don’t like the poor quality of filter construction offered by Champion Laboratories.

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NOTES: The wire mesh seems to really hold the media together. As I was cutting out a media sample for measurement, the media literally fell apart. I wasn’t very happy to see that, but that must explain for the thicker wire, as I couldn’t cut through it with a razor blade.



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Conclusion:

I’ll start by saying that I’m pretty happy I did this, as it validates quite a few of my assumptions surrounding filtration efficiency and just who was making filters for whom. AMSOIL is worth the money, so all you guys slanging AMSOIL (apagan01, I’m looking at you) keep on, keepin’ on. The Royal Purple filter is also a synthetic, so if you can source one for less than the current AMSOIL filter, you may want to consider it.

I was surprised by just how good the Purolator filter actually was. Being a cellulose + synthetic blend would account for it’s filtering efficiency. I think the quality of filtration combined with the surface area of the Purolator filter and the price makes it a really good option for sure. I will say that the quality of construction of the Purolator was quite poor, even the filter arrived with a huge dent in the side. Once I cut it open, I could see just how thin the housing was. Since the filters in the 4G63 sit so low to the ground, all it would take to pop that filter would be a single rock bouncing off the ground if you’re not running an under tray.

I was disappointed to see the Mobil 1 filter performing as poorly as a cellulose filter (K&N comes to mind, since they’re both made by Champion Laboratories), even though it is also a synthetic blend similar to the Purolator. I also found that the filter construction from all of the Champion Laboratories were pretty poor. I’m saddened by the fact that AMSOIL switched to them to build their current Ea15k20, as that’s the filter they now stock. If you can get your hands on an Ea046, that’s the filter to get. The lack of surface area in the Ea046 is a bummer, but the filtration quality makes it totally worth it.

I had expected the DENSO to perform poorly and it didn’t disappoint. The construction of the filter felt pretty decent, but looking at the internals and the filter design lead me to believe that it wasn’t going to do well. I will say that having all of that surface area will allow you to catch quite a bit of contaminants, but what good will that do if it’s only catching particulates over 30μm?

The other filters I was pulling for were just average. The WIX, Donaldson and Hastings seem to be sort of middle of the road filters that will do the job just fine if you’re okay with settling for average. The surface area of the WIX and Hastings beat out the Donaldson and the higher flow rate of the WIX beats out the Hastings. The quality of construction of all three is top notch. These filters should be fine for your average daily driven car that would see regular oil change intervals.



Additional resources:

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl…lterstudy.html

Attached Thumbnails

The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)-p1020786_zps094fe17a.jpg   The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)-p1020816_zps3e4be3b2.jpg  

 

Last edited by golgo13; Oct 17, 2014 at 10:24 AM.

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The Big Fuel Test: E85 Versus All—The Winner is Crowned!

 

This article is the fifth and last of our Big Fuel Test series (Article 1: Introduction, Article 2: BOOSTane, Article 3: Meth Injection, Article 4: Race Fuels Fight Back), which spanned 13 different test fuels, octane additives and injections. During this final installment of the series, we review the ethanol-based fuels (E85, C85) and get the results of this power-making shootout, all of which was performed at The Tuning School’s facility in Odessa, Florida.

After all this testing, it was clear there would be two fuels left slugging it out for the victory. Ethanol (E85) and methanol injection were the two clear winners leading up to this pivotal point in the article series.

The results of all tests are in, so let’s get to it!

Testing in this final round were the following fuels and injections:

  • Pump E85 from a local station (40-percent as tested from the pump)
  • VP Racing’s C85 (40-percent for consistent testing and fuel system limitations as well)
  • VP Racing C85 plus meth injection (40-percent for consistent testing and fuel system limitations)
  • VP Racing C16 plus meth injection

Just to be clear: we were limited to 40-percent ethanol testing for two reasons. The first reason is simple—that’s what actually came out of the pump when we bought “E85,” which typically varies from tank to tank. This means that the concentration of ethanol was actually only 40-percent, and gasoline made up the remaining 60-percent. We would have preferred it be what it claimed (85-percent ethanol, 15-percent gasoline) but that’s what it actually was. As it turned out anyway, due to fuel system limitations, we couldn’t run any higher than 40-percent ethanol. The volume of fuel the car required exceeded our test car’s ability to provide it. So for those reasons, we didn’t increase the concentration and performed all tests at 40-percent ethanol concentration. This is a common issue with direct injected vehicles without heavy fuel system modifications.

Results:

Here are the results for the pump E85 versus 93 octane pump gas:

 Pump E85 was a killer fuel after tuning, as it made a solid 618 rear-wheel horsepower on our Mustang Dynamometer, soundly defeating our baseline fuel of pump 93 octane gasoline at 574 rear-wheel horsepower. It also beat 93 octane plus meth injection (we’ll call that 93+MI) by 2 horsepower—and as you know I’m going to point out, that’s in the margin of error; which means it’s not enough to call a true winner.

That’s right, if you recall from article #3 of this series, our 93+MI runs resulted in a roller spin measured at 616 rwhp.

Let’s take a moment to let the internet burn to the ground. That’s the end result??? The power output of pump fuel plus meth injection against E85 showed virtually the same result? I can only imagine the flame wars brewing in the interwebs! We just started automotive World War III, so to speak.

Not happy with leaving this alone—having a shared winner for our series—we performed several more tests to help us declare a final winner. With pump E85 now sharing the winner’s crown with 93+MI in a tie for the victory of the entire test series, we thought maybe VP Racing’s C85 could be a clear victor. So we drained the pump E85 out and filled up with C85.

As we hoped, the race fuel came through and made a show of its strengths. Check out the results below. 93+MI results are the solid lines, and dashes are VP Racing’s C85.

 

 

Now with a clear victory in hand, we should have stopped. 629 rwhp was clearly the best result to date, and made a solid case for VP Racing C85’s superiority over 93+MI… the debates began among our own staff. We knew the cries of the meth injection junkies would be coming in fast and furious upon reading these results; how we needed a race fuel version of E85 to beat meth injection and lowly pump gas… How it wasn’t really pump E85 that won. VP Racing’s C85 won: the pure race version was needed to make it the winner. What could we do?

So, we ran two more tests—and the surprises kept on coming. The roller coaster had two more twists before we were able to close out this series and call a real winner.

In order to be fair, we decided to give the meth injection camp another chance to win, by running the best non-ethanol fuel we had tested (VP Racing’s C16) with meth injection on top. Surely this would bring the meth injection camp the glory we know they seek. Sadly for them, the car made less power with C16 plus meth injection than it did with 93+MI. We were able to make only 605 rwhp after exhaustive testing. We had suspected this could happen, with too much octane creating such a slow burn that we simply couldn’t make the power we hoped for.

So, as we said earlier, we had a clear victor and should have stopped. But we took a request from the meth injection camp for one last and final test. What if we tested VP Racing’s C85 plus meth injection?

What if we combined both for one last test, just to see? That’s where the internet begins to burn down again. Behold, the Final Test Results and the winning fuel combination of the entire series:

Making 632 rear-wheel horsepower and 558 lb-ft of torque, the winner of our series is… the combination of VP Racing C85 with meth injection!

Again, we’re left with one inescapable conclusion—E85 and meth injection are both amazing options and both are better than pump gas alone. They fight for each last horsepower and came out virtually identical in all our testing, and when combined together, they worked even better. Maybe that will help quench the internet fire over the superior solution. Maybe it will just generate more chatter. Who knows—but it’s up to you, the reader, tuner, engine builder, whomever is reading this, to look at the charts and determine what’s best for your actual combination.

To help with that, here’s some more data.

Here’s our final results chart, with all fuels, octane enhancers and injections we tested:

Below is a chart showing percentage gains:

The 5-10-percent gains you see above (30-60 rwhp gains) using just different fuels are very impressive. When you understand that a decent camshaft upgrade on an LS/LT Engine will also net 5- to 10-percent gains (30-60 rwhp gains) over a stock camshaft, you can see how important it is to choose and tune the correct fuel for your application!

There is one more way to look at these results. You can look at these from a perspective of dollars versus improvements. In the chart above, we can look at the results from 93 and BOOSTane (4.2-percent) to VP Racing’s C16 (5.4-percent) and see a trend. You can get about 5-percent more power than pump gas for a small upfront investment. That means, you can simply add BOOSTane into the tank, or any of those race fuels and with the right tuning, gain about 5-percent power over 93 octane pump fuel; about 30 rwhp in our example.

However, in the chart above, it looks like once you start getting about 6-percent gains and higher the costs go up pretty quickly. Looking from 93 plus Boost Juice (5.9-percent) and higher gains, the up front costs go up at least $500 due to the parts needed for a good meth injection kit. Assuming you’re going to inject methanol, you’ll need a good kit of about $500-$750.

Assuming you’re going to run one of the ethanol-based fuels, you’ll need larger injectors ($500-$1,000) and potentially more fuel system components (another $500-$1,000). So, depending on your budget, you can have roughly 5-percent more power for very little cost up front, or 6- to 10-percent more power with a bit more money outlay ($500-$2,000 for fuel system upgrades).

E85 Pros

  • Made the highest power of all testing we performed, including the best race fuels
  • Ongoing costs of operation are very low compared to race fuels
  • Average cost per gallon comparable to pump gas
  • Easily available in many states
  • Well supported and commonly used in the aftermarket performance industry

E85 Cons

  • Up front costs to set up your vehicle to run it can be high (injectors, fuel pump, lines, etc.)
  • Quality and concentration can vary from pump to pump (E85 may not always be 85-percent Ethanol)
  • Quality and concentration can vary from season to season (winter blend is different than summer)
  • Cold starts can be difficult
  • Tuning make take more time and cost, but most can be automated to adjust for changes in fuel quality

Tuning Notes:

Ethanol-based fuels are not something we recommend a beginner tuner attempt to work with. To do a good job and not wash down the cylinders, the tuner should be able to tune the combo in question on pump gas in his sleep. In relation to that, we always recommend you finish tuning the vehicle on pump gas first before going and switching to an ethanol-based fuel. We do this for a few reasons, the first being most tuners can easily recognize issues with the tune when working with pump gas. They can easily spot a mechanical problem and not mistakenly cover it up with tuning changes. Second, it allows you to show a baseline pull or pulls, with power progressing as you make spark changes, until you finish and find the best possible power on pump gas. After that, you can change out the fuel for an ethanol-based fuel, retune and know for sure what kind of gains really came from changing fuels.

The ethanol-based fuels are also best tuned using Lambda method instead of air/fuel ratio due to changing stoichiometric ratios from the changes in fuel quality. For example, filling up with “E85” that turned out to be only 43-percent ethanol, would have a stoichiometric value of 12.18:1, but E85 has a stoichiometric value of 9.77:1. Due to the fact that these are constantly changing from fill up to fill up, it’s easier to tune using Lamba—because Lambda never changes. If you aren’t familiar with how this works, have a look at the table below, taken from The Tuning School’s GM Advanced Level 2 course.

In this case, VP Racing’s C85 preferred Lambda of .85-.87, while pump “E85” preferred .82-.84, a bit richer. Look at the chart above to equate that to gasoline AFR, if you are used to working or thinking like that.

VP Racing’s C85 also preferred 23 degrees of spark advance, while “E85” preferred 22-23.

Tuning for wide open throttle is simple, once you get the correct Flex Fuel tuning set up with a good Ethanol content sensor. Without such a sensor, you are constantly monitoring the Ethanol content of each fillup, and then manually changing the Stoichiometric value in the tune, which is a real pain and reiterates the need for a quality Flex Fuel tune. Another aspect of the tuning process with ethanol-based fuels to keep in mind is your wideband sensor and gauge. If your wideband reads in AFR, then you will see the same AFR you are used to working with during gasoline based tuning, unless it has an option to change it to know what fuel it is working with, and you have changed it to know it’s working with ethanol. If your wideband reads in Lambda, then it will not be affected—which is another reason to tune using Lambda when working with any ethanol-based fuels.

One last component to this evaluation is the human factor. We decided to ask a few industry expert friends and a few who work with us. We asked if they preferred meth injection or E85, and why.

Ron Mowen, owner of Vengeance Racing, said: “I think they both will ultimately make similar power, but E85 is much safer in the long run if you can justify the fuel system costs associated with it.” Vengeance Racing is known for building some of the nation’s fastest LS/LT powered vehicles, including road race and airstrip attack cars.

Tony Gonyon, owner of Tuners Inc. and also The Tuning School’s Ford course instructor, said he “prefers E85 if they have the proper supporting mods, if not then meth injection is fine.” Tuners Inc. is known as one of the premier tuning shops in the nation.

Stephen Taylor from VCM Performance in Melbourne, Australia noted that E85 is far more popular in Australia’s performance market.

Brett McClelland, one of our instructors at The Tuning School, noted that E85 is most popular among the students they teach.

Our other instructor, Josh Hofstra, noted that E85 is great for knock control in high-horsepower builds (1,000-plus) from experience, and meth injection can also be great.

My personal opinion is that the correct answer depends on the engine and build you have, who the customer really is, and how much budget can be put into the vehicle. If you can commit to the money needed for an ethanol-based solution, you have good ethanol-based fuel readily available in your area, and you are going to have a proper Flex Fuel tune done, then you have a great option for maximum power. However, I still prefer meth injection for most solutions, due to ease of installation and history of performance, as I have used this solution personally and professionally since 2003 with success.

I have seen too much variance in ethanol’s performance to consider it any type of reliable replacement for a race fuel in a high-dollar build. I do believe race fuels are still best when you aren’t building on a tiny budget, and you have a lot of money in the engine that could be saved with a quality fuel. If ethanol is still your hangup, they make C85 for that: a known-quality ethanol-based race fuel I can live with on the expensive builds.

Tuning Results & Fuel Evaluation:

Testing and tuning of the ethanol-based fuels was as difficult as doing the meth injection tuning. If you or your tuner isn’t familiar with tuning either E85 or meth injection, you’re in for a long day on the dyno. Just like tuning meth injection, ethanol or E85 is fuel you are introducing into the combustion process. Unlike gasoline, it burns differently and at different rates. The quantities needed are different: more E85 is needed than gasoline, typically 20- to 35-percent more. E85 is the designation for an ethanol-blended fuel where ethanol makes up 85-percent of the content, and gasoline 15-percent.

E85 has a few issues you need to take into account before using it.

Understanding why E85 makes better power than pump gas is important. Depending on who you ask, your answers will vary – but we have a few of those reasons from our conversation with Freddy Turza, Technical Manager at VP Racing. One of those reasons worth mentioning that you probably haven’t already heard is called Hydrodynamic Pressure. This term means that due to the extreme rich mixture required of E85 to produce power, a byproduct is extra compression from the space taken up by the fuel in the combustion chamber. Extra compression creates extra power, plain and simple. However, Freddy noted that the E85 craze is subject to poor quality from pump to pump or time to time.

From our perspective, this makes it even more important that your tuner perform a good flex-fuel tune so the ECM can recognize the ethanol content as the fuel flows into the engine from the tank. This means your tune will automatically adjust the Stoichiometric air/fuel ratio and spark settings as required by the changing ethanol content from pump to pump.

The final evaluation of what fuel is right for you rests in your hands. In summary, you can gain about 5-percent more power than high-octane pump gas for very little investment because of great products like BOOSTane, and VP Racing’s MS103 or MS109. Just drop it in the tank, tune it and roll. When you want 6- to 10-percent more power is where the questions begin to arise, and the winning combination of fuel plus meth injection or E85/C85 will be entirely up to you to evaluate. I’d suggest keeping an open mind for your combination, and to even test and see what benefits your combination best.

Remember this – to be the winning racer doesn’t necessarily mean you have the newest and best stuff. Sometimes the winner is the one with the most time testing and experience to really dial in their combo, making the most power possible from the build, right down to knowing the best possible fuel. Thanks for reading our series, and stay tuned for our next series – where we test injections like you’ve never seen or heard of before.

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Engine Builders Are Moving To Thinner Rings—And Here’s Why

The supporting mechanical reasons for this rush to be too thin are nearly universally beneficial. Let’s start with a discussion of how a ring actually seals to the cylinder wall. If you’ve ever assembled an engine, you know that piston rings need to be compressed slightly to fit into the cylinder and it requires a bit of effort to shove the piston down, especially if the piston is fitted with the old standard 5/64-inch ring package that was almost universally used for engines right up to roughly 20 years ago.

When the radial depth of the ring is reduced, so is the tension. Gas ports are one way to get a ring to seal well on the combustion stroke, while reducing friction on the other three strokes (intake, compression, exhaust).The effort required to push the rings against the cylinder wall is generated by the ring’s radial tension. A given load is required to create sufficient sealing against the cylinder wall. Basic physics tells us that the larger the ring face area touching the cylinder wall, the more radial tension is required to achieve the desired load. This greater outward tension creates more friction as the piston travels up and down the bore.

 

      Less Friction Equals More Performance

Conventional wisdom holds that roughly 50- to 60-percent of the total friction generated by a typical internal combustion engine can be traced to the piston and rings. Even more amazing is that a solid 50-percent of the piston and ring friction can be traced to just the rings, so we’re talking about measurable gains for anyone looking to reduce friction as a path toward “free” horsepower. The potential gain is even greater for engines with increased stroke because the piston travels a greater distance, creating more friction.
Given that a large percentage of friction occurs in the interface between the piston rings and the cylinder wall, even the OEMs are paying attention. Production engines like the Gen III/IV LS families have addressed this by reducing ring thickness down to 1.5mm. The current gasoline direct-injected LT4 supercharged Corvette engines are now fitted with an even thinner 0.8mm/0.8mm/ 2.0mm ring package.

In some applications JE custom ring services grinds and laps rings to custom thickness. They can also back-cut and coat rings for racers looking for that something extra.

Taking this one step further, we calculated the actual contact area of an older 5/64-inch (0.078-inch) ring for a 4.00-inch bore cylinder and then compared that to a more modern 1mm (0.0393-inch) ring by calculating the circumference times the face thickness. To make it simple, we assumed a ring with a zero gap. The actual contact area numbers are less important than the difference in in contact area expressed as a percentage. The smaller 1mm ring produces nearly a 50-percent reduction in area.
It makes sense that just making the rings thinner would reduce friction, but the benefits are even greater. A specific ring thickness must create a given static load or pressure against the cylinder wall to help it seal. A thicker ring requires more outward (radial) tension because of its larger surface area. But by reducing thickness, this allows the designer to also reduce the radial pressure to compensate for the reduced surface area in contact with the cylinder wall.

There is only so much real estate on the crown of a piston. In addition to reducing friction, thinner rings make stroker pistons with very short compression heights possible.

This may be difficult to grasp so let’s use an analogy. Let’s say you weigh 200 pounds and decide to take a walk in deep snow in the woods. Standard shoes sink into the snow, but snow shoes with a larger contact area create a reduced load per square inch. Applying this analogy to a thinner ring (a smaller contact patch on the cylinder wall) calls for a reduced total load since the contact area is smaller. The thinner ring demands a reduced axial load so the thinner ring’s load per square inch is similar to that of the older, thicker version, albeit without the friction tax.

JE offers several custom ring services that were previously top-secret Pro Stock and NASCAR-grade tech.

Within the three-ring package on a typical automotive piston, the oil rings create the highest individual tension or load. This load is applied through the design of the middle portion of the ring called the expander. Recent improvements in expander design have reduced the friction while still allowing the ring to remove oil from the cylinder wall.

Drag racers have known for decades that one way to minimize friction is to reduce the tension of the oil ring by using an expander designed for a slightly smaller bore. While this does reduce friction and improve power, the tradeoff is increased oil consumption. This is generally not a problem for a limited-use drag race engine but certainly not a wise move for street or endurance engines.

Modern rings are made from stronger material and can have profiled faces that assists in sealing and oil control.

    

      In The Dyno Cell

JE recently contributed to a test performed by Evan Perkins in which the Westech Performance Group, led by Steve Brule’, dyno-tested a 377ci small-block Chevy fitted with a set of JE pistons configured with a 5/64-, 5/64-, 3/16-inch standard performance ring package. This 377ci engine was configured with a 4.155-inch bore and a 3.48-inch stroke. With the average power recorded over three runs, they disassembled the engine and replaced the pistons with an identical set machined for a thinner 1.2mm/1.2mm/3mm JE ring package. The results revealed a peak horsepower improvement of 6.8 hp and a peak torque increase of 3.8 lb-ft on an engine making 458 hp and 433 lb-ft of torque.

Just as this stack of coins illustrates, cylinders are often not straight. Even if machined perfectly straight, under operation, cylinder pressure and loading in the block can distort them. This is especially prevalent in aluminum engines with thin sleeves.

While many in attendance were surprised that the improvement increase was not a greater number, there are several factors at work here. The peak horsepower numbers were generated at 6,000 rpm. Had this engine generated peak horsepower at higher engine speeds, the results would have been even greater. Another variable is stroke. Had this test been performed on a longer stroke engine like a 4.25-inch stroke big-block, the results would have been commensurately greater.

This trend toward thinner rings also enhances ring seal because the thinner ring has a better chance of sealing to a cylinder bore that is usually not completely round or concentric. Think of a cylinder bore under dynamic load as a tall stack of dimes. When measuring cylinder bore, imagine that you are measuring it in the area occupied by just one of those dimes. If the bore is measured in several places, the diameter may read the same which many would then assume “proves” the bore is round over its entire height. However, when the cylinder is viewed from the side, the bore may in fact be more in an S-shape as opposed to being perfectly “square” top to bottom. Assuming the bore is distorting under load, a thinner ring will have a much better chance of conforming and sealing to that S-shaped cylinder wall.

Thinner piston rings are made from carbon steel, which allows them to be stronger than thicker, cast iron rings, while still reducing friction.

Any discussion of “thin” rings must also include what the ring engineers call axial ring width, or the width of the ring as viewed from the top. The SAE has established a standard automotive piston ring axial width using the formula bore diameter divided by 22. So a 4.00-inch bore / 22 = an axial width of 0.182-inch. However, reducing this standard width lowers the radial ring tension even further. Often this is done to improve strength in race pistons where the ring package is very close to the top of the piston, leaving very little room between the back side of the top ring and the valve relief. This reduced axial ring width is an option on many JE pistons.

For reference, here is a racing-style top ring as compared to a well-worn dime.

In Conclusion

If you decide that a thinner ring package should be part of your next engine build, it’s likely JE already has that ring package on the shelf. The most common standard JE and SRP ring package for performance and race pistons is the 1.2mm/1.5mm/3.0mm ring package. Of course, custom ring services and packages are also available, such as grinding, lapping, coatings and others. For a full run-through on JE’s custom ring programs, click HERE.

Being rich and thin are often associated with fame and rock star status, but when it comes to thin rings, that’s just something that will make your engine a bit more powerful. And that’s just a whole lot more fun.

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Piston-To-Wall Clearance: Myths, Mysteries, and Misconceptions Explained


by John Baechtel

Piston-to-wall clearance is a crucial measurement for any engine, and different applications can require wildly different specs. We explain the science of why. 

Among the shiny objects that emerge from a new box of high-performance pistons, you are also presented with a spec sheet detailing the piston’s critical dimensions and, among other things, the all-important piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. It’s the core specification that engine builders always target to ensure trouble-free operation of the engines they build.

Piston-to-wall clearance is set near the bottom of the skirt on the thrust side as shown here. Between the clearance point and the ring pack, no part of the piston comes close to contacting the cylinder wall.

It is universally understood that proper clearance is essential to successful operation, and that too much or too little can easily lead to fatal engine damage. Some small clearance is essential to provide room for the lubricating medium, but most clearance is built in to accommodate component expansion rates as an engine come up to operating temperature.

Your new set of Wiseco pistons will give you top performance if you follow the instructions that come in every box. The recommended piston-to-wall clearance ensures proper fit and trouble-free operation.

 Most end users regard the recommended piston-to-wall clearance as an all-inclusive indicator of the piston’s optimum fitment in the cylinder bore for safe operation.

In the overall sense they are correct, and careful attention to the recommended fit will almost always ward off the dreaded evils of excessive friction, piston slap, ring damage, and attending failures.

The recommended measurement point on the piston is the largest diameter point on the piston, thus it must be fitted with the proper manufacturer’s clearance. Think of it as the safety point manufacturers provide to prevent improper fitment and subsequent engine damage. But there is more to it.  When the engine is running at operating temperature, every point on the piston skirt and the ring land area has a specified clearance designed to ensure proper function of the piston and associated ring pack.

The piston skirt is the point of contact on the thrust sides of the piston. Clearance is measured here at the manufacturer’s recommended point, which varies between pistons. It is the piston’s largest diameter and the point of critical clearance. 

 In determining the optimum piston-to-wall clearance, designers consider the entire physical and thermal operating environment of the piston by evaluating the following factors and how they inter-relate for each piston design.

  • Application
  • Block Type (material)
  • Piston Material (alloy)
  • Type, (cast, forged, hypereutectic}
  • Piston Size
  • Lubrication
  • Cooling

APPLICATION:

Different applications present varying requirements. Engine speed, cylinder pressure, skirt loading, rod angularity and other factors all play a role in the designer’s assessment of a piston’s final clearance requirement. Many low-speed production engines still use inexpensive cast pistons with very controlled expansion characteristics. They can be fitted very tightly in the bore and last a long time under normal service. They don’t rattle on startup, which is a major concern to automakers, and they provide smooth, trouble-free operation year after year.

Piston-to-wall clearance is a critical measurement that is influenced by a multitude of factors. Knowing piston size, base material, engine style, and many more details are critical to getting it right.

Continuous operation at WOT dramatically increases the thermal loading of the piston, causing it to expand more. Engines subjected to sustained WOT almost always require additional clearance to allow for increased expansion, and to ensure adequate space for the lubricating oil film splashing on the cylinder walls. Racing engines and marine engines that endure sustained WOT operation are prime examples of the need for increased clearance.

High-performance street engines running nitrous oxide injection require more piston-to-wall clearance than say, your average four barrel equipped daily driver.

Other considerations include highly boosted engines and those incorporating nitrous oxide injection. Recommended clearances are specific to the application and piston designers take this into consideration when helping you with a set of custom pistons. Highly loaded engines like these tend to experience greater heat loads and much higher cylinder pressures that can increase piston deflection and require more clearance. While the piston and rod are the mechanism by which force is transferred to the crankshaft, the piston is also tasked with maintaining a stable platform to support the rings. An unstable piston diminishes ring seal and thus power.

Block Type and Material

Block type makes a huge difference in piston-to-wall clearance requirements. An aluminum block, such as this Chevrolet LS3 block, will expand more than a cast-iron block changing clearance requirements significantly.

Cast iron and aluminum are the predominant materials from which cylinder casings are manufactured. These materials exert considerable influence on piston-to-wall clearance, primarily due to their thermal expansion characteristics. Cast iron blocks expand less than aluminum blocks with cast iron cylinder liners and are thus more thermally stable.

Some blocks incorporate Nikasil-plated aluminum cylinders without liners––these expand even more. In every case, dimensional changes due to heating must be addressed to arrive at a proper piston clearance. And that includes accounting for the thermal characteristics of the piston material as well. Bore distortion due to cylinder head fastener clamping load also influences final piston clearance figures. Depending on the engine and the construction of the block, it is also possible for other fasteners to distort the bore. These might include motor mounts, pumps, bracketry and so on.

PISTON MATERIAL

The base material of the piston is probably the biggest determinate of piston-to-wall-requirements. Pistons made from 2618 material will need slightly larger clearances than those made of 4032 material, which contains thermally stabilizing silicone.

Cast pistons with an integral expansion strut were commonplace for many years and they still provide very reliable service in low-power, low-rpm situations. Close to a century ago, the addition of 12 percent silicon as an alloying constituent was found to significantly stabilize the expansion of aluminum components, such as pistons.

Known as eutectic-aluminum-silicon alloy, it permitted the development of cast, high-silicon pistons with up to 20 percent silicon alloy. These are known as hypereutectic pistons and their chief advantage is a very low expansion rate. They can be installed with as little as 0.0005-inch piston-to-wall clearance on the major diameter.

Interestingly, when a modern forged piston with more initial cold clearance reaches operating temperature, the difference in running clearance is less than might be surmised. For example, Wiseco uses 2618 and 4032 alloys for all its forgings. While the expansion rates are different for each alloy, Wiseco has made pistons from each alloy for the same engine operate successfully at nearly the same running clearance. The higher-expanding 2618 piston may have a larger initial clearance than a 4032 piston, but once the engine reaches operating temperature, both pistons will have similar running clearances.

Piston Profile

The piston’s barrel shape places the point of critical contact low on the skirt to provide a stabilizing point near the bottom of the piston. Pistons are also oval, not round, to reduce friction on non-thrust surfaces.

The piston profile plays an important role in determining clearance. Tighter clearances tend to reduce piston slap (clatter) on cold startup and they provide a more stable fit to promote good ring seal.

Pistons with full radius skirts (as opposed to barrel shaped profiles) are claimed to be capable of a tighter fit. The reality is such that the full skirt piston, because it has a full radius profile, is measured at the very bottom and has a much greater clearance everywhere but at the measuring point. This is an example of the overall clearance of the piston differing significantly from the published clearance specification.

Piston Size

The bigger the piston, the more it will expand. Hot Rods and American V8s tend to use large pistons which require more initial piston-to-wall clearance than say, a Honda engine with its smaller bore size.

Larger pistons typically require more clearance than smaller pistons. A comparison of extremes illustrates the point if we consider the difference in two unrelated pistons used for flying. The thimble sized piston from a Cox .049 model airplane engine operates just fine with such minimal clearance that it does not even require any form of piston ring to seal the combustion gas.

Conversely, a 5.400″ diameter piston from the Merlin V-12 engine that powered the P-51 WWII fighter requires .012″ to .014″ clearance for satisfactory operation. Here, we also note that the thermal loading from friction is far greater in the Merlin engine than in the Cox engine. Under the extreme conditions of airplane racing, massive heat loading occurs in the Merlin engine with the pistons expanding accordingly.

Setting piston-to-wall clearance is often a function of the honing process. Most machine shops will not hone a block until they have pistons and spec sheet in-hand. The honing stones remove material very slowly and also condition the cylinder walls to be both smooth, and have the necessary valleys to make oil stick to them.

Lubrication

Oil on the cylinder wall adapts to local conditions at operating temperature, but the piston clearance must allow some room for the lubricant film to do its job. The oil film is supplied by splash coming off the rapidly rotating crankshaft. In simplified terms, oil bleeding out of the rod and main bearing side clearances is flung onto the cylinder walls and controlled in a thin film by the oil ring. The oil film can be less than 0.001-inch and is accounted for in the final piston clearance. An oil film must be present to not only lubricate the surfaces, but to transfer heat from the piston to the cylinder block and then the cooling system.

The cooling style of an engine affects piston-to-wall clearace. Because air-cooled engines are at the mercy of ambient air temperature and flow over the engine’s cooling fins (shown), they see a wider variety of operating temperatures and need additional clearance.

Cooling System Type

Considerable difference exists in clearance requirements for air cooled engines versus liquid cooling. Air cooled applications such as found in Volkswagen or Porsche cars, are essentially non-regulated systems at the mercy of air flow conditions. They are more prone to bore distortion and uneven expansion. Air cooling is more finicky due to broad fluctuations in air flow. In an aircraft engine for example, cooling also diminishes with altitude because the air is thinner and carries away less heat.

Liquid cooling provides greater consistency with an easily regulated system and quicker warm up as a bonus. The cooling medium is transferred in and out as required by thermal conditions and regulation provided by the thermostat. These factors affect the resultant piston-to-cylinder bore clearance.

Ultra-high horsepower engines with power adders, such as turbos, superchargers and nitrous, require more clearance to deal with the extreme heat generated under WOT conditions.

Engineers go to great lengths to determine proper piston to wall clearance. This includes real world testing on running engines with various skirt configurations and different clearances to determine the suitability of each piston for a particular application. When a design is finalized, the clearance and checking location are specified in the instructional paperwork that accompanies the pistons. If these recommendations are strictly followed you can expect trouble free operation from your new pistons and optimum cylinder sealing for maximum power.

 

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The importance of having the proper safety gear

Like many other sports, there is safety equipment that is necessary for protection of the participants in racing. Look at the equipment that is standard for football players, or hockey players, among others. There is specific safety equipment that is designed for and required in those sports. Racing has its own unique safety equipment for participants. Racing safety equipment, and the protection it provides, is designed to minimize or eliminate burns, injury, or death.

Unfortunately, safety equipment may often be the last thing that is considered before heading to the race track. Typically, the majority of a racing budget is dedicated to performance equipment and too little is set aside specifically for participant safety equipment. That is the last area where you should try to cut corners. It is recommended to purchase the highest level of protection that your budget will allow.

One article of safety equipment that is required is a suit designed specifically for racing. A number of factors should be considered when looking for a suit:

What do the rules require where I am planning to compete?
What is the SFI rating, and what does that mean?
What are the material options?
And of course, what is the cost of the type of suit I am planning to use?

Listed below is some information that may be helpful when making your suit decision.

  1. Know the rules: Check with the organization that sets the rules where you are going to race about their requirements for driver safety equipment. Suits are typically specified to meet a minimum SFI Spec, or they may specify a minimum number of layers of a certain material, or both. You will need to know their rules before purchasing your suit. That information will help your salesperson determine what level of protection you should have.
  2. SFI Foundation: The SFI Foundation is a non-profit organization that has developed standards for safety apparel. Manufacturers must have materials and components tested by independent labs to receive the SFI certification for a specific item, like a drivers suit. There are several categories of racing safety apparel, and related accessories, defined by the SFI Foundation. For driver’s suits, SFI standards focus on Thermal Protection Performance (TPP) and flammability, with the exception of kart racing suits which are rated for abrasion resistance and tear strength.
  3. Thermal Protective Performance (TPP): TPP ratings are the result of specific lab tests at a certain temperature to estimate how long a given material will protect a person from a second degree burn. Remember, even though the suit material is flame retardant, heat will penetrate through the material and result in a burn. The more layers of protection, (or in this case – insulation), you have between you and the heat source, the more time you will have before experiencing a burn.

The SFI standards for suits are:
 
SFI 3.2A Min TPP Rating Est. time to 2nd degree burn
3.2A/1 6 3 Seconds
3.2A/5 19 9.5 Seconds
3.2A/10 38 19 Seconds
3.2A/15 60 30 Seconds
3.2A/20   40 Seconds

*Real world results may vary due to factors such as; Condition of the suit, type of fire, proximity to the heat source.

SFI 3.2A/1 and SFI 3.2A/5 suits are the most common in motorsports. 3.2A/1 suits are made with one layer of flame retardant material. 3.2A/5 rated suits consist of two or three layers of material in different combinations. SFI/10 suits are less common as sanctioning bodies that make safety rules usually require a 3.2A/1, 3.2A/5, 3.2A/15 or 3.2A/20 rating.

A multi layer suit provides three to four times more protection than a single layer suit based on SFI certified Thermal Protection Performance (TPP) testing. Take note of the amount of time you actually have with a single layer suit before you may experience a 2nd degree burn. How much time will it take for you to stop the vehicle and exit the cockpit? That should be enough to make you consider a suit that offers a higher SFI rating and better protection.

(Keep in mind that any area of your body that is not covered is exposed to the heat and flame. That is why flame retardant gloves, shoes, socks, hoods and underwear are also important.)

Costs of a suit vary; single layer suits are reasonably priced, but offer the least protection. Standard design multi-layer suits offer better protection at an affordable price. Custom suits are designed to fit you and feature the options, materials and design you specify. Custom suit prices are individually quoted based on your requirements and requests. They are more expensive and will require more information and time to deliver to you as it is being custom built to your specifications.

Check your equipment before each event. Keep this information in mind when it is time to replace your driving suit, or if you are investing in your first suit. Whether it is a standard design, or a custom design, the protection your suit provides could insure that you stay on track.

Click here to see why having the proper safety equipment is extremely important.

 

This information was courtesy of Don Stodola at G-Force Racing Gear.

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High Performance Engine Bearings

Good main bore alignment and geometry is just as important as the type of bearings used and oil clearances.
Good main bore alignment and geometry is just as important as the type of bearings used and oil clearances.

Building a high performance engine is always an adventure. You never know how much horsepower and torque an engine will make until it’s on the dyno. And you never know how well the engine will hold up until it is put to the test on the strip, race track, street or water. The bearings that support the crankshaft play a critical role in handling the power the engine produces as well as engine durability. Because of this, bearing selection, fit and installation can make or break your engine build.

If a bearing is not strong enough to handle a high horsepower application, it may fret or fatigue and fail. The last thing you want to see are little flakes of metal in the oil pan and filter. A spun bearing is even worse, especially if it happens at high RPM because it will usually break a rod and destroy the engine.

Bearing Selection

Rule #1 when building a high performance engine is to follow the recommendations of the bearing manufacturer as to which type of bearings to use in a particular application. Don’t try to second-guess their recommendations.

Every bearing manufacturer has different products for different applications, from stock to extreme performance. If you’ve had good success with a particular brand and type of bearing you might as well stick with the same bearings you’ve been using all along. On the other hand, if you’ve had some failure or fitment issues with a particular brand or type of bearing and the problems have not been due to your own machining mistakes or assembly errors, you might want to rethink the wisdom of using the same bearings in future engine builds. Switching to a different grade of bearing or a different bearing material may be the solution to your bearing problem.

Late model production engines are factory equipped with bi-metal aluminum bearings because these bearings contain no lead, are less expensive to manufacture than tri-metal lead-copper bearings, and can last upwards of 200,000 miles in most stock applications. Aluminum bearings also have good seizure resistance. To increase hardness, aluminum bearings contain a small amount of silicon. The higher the percentage of silicon in the alloy, the harder the bearing. Silicon also helps polish the microscopic burrs that are left on the surface of cast iron cranks after they have been ground and polished.

Bearing manufacturers use different aluminum alloys in their products. Alloys are formulated to optimize fatigue strength, wear resistance, seizure resistance and conformability. The aluminum alloys that bearing manufacturers use today are much better than the ones from years ago. Special, high performance alloys may contain extra tin, copper or other ingredients to increase strength for racing applications. Many bi-metal aluminum performance bearings can handle loads as high as 10,000 PSI (550 to 600 hp).

Most factory crate engines, as well as performance crate engines today, are assembled with aluminum bi-metal bearings. But it’s important to remember the bearings in these engines are intended for a certain horsepower level. If the engine is further modified and makes more power than the bearings can handle, the result may be bearing failure. Aluminum bearings typically flake and peel when loads become too great, whereas tri-metal bearings often wipe or smear when overloaded.

One of the criticisms of bi-metal aluminum bearings is that they are not as forgiving as traditional tri-metal lead-copper bearings. They provide minimal embeddability, so any microscopic junk that’s in the oil won’t get smooshed into the face of the bearing. If the particles are small enough to flush out of the bearing, that’s good because the particles won’t stick in the bearing surface and act like a cutting bit against the crank journal. On the other hand, if the debris is too large to flush out of the bearing, it can wedge between the surfaces and damage both the bearing and journal.

Racing bearings have different design features than stock bearings. This may include special oil grooving, edge chamfers and greater eccentricity (courtesy of Speed-Pro)
Racing bearings have different design features than stock bearings. This may include special oil grooving, edge chamfers and greater eccentricity (courtesy of Speed-Pro)

The copper-lead layer in a tri-metal bearing provides high load carrying capacity (up to 12,000 PSI or higher, and over 800 horsepower depending on the alloy). However, copper lacks seizure resistance, so tri-metal bearings also have a thin overlay of babbitt. Typically, babbitt is a mixture of 87% lead, 10% tin and 3% copper. The babbitt overlay provides lubricity, seizure resistance and embeddability. The layer is usually only .001˝ to .0005˝ thick.

The babbitt overlay can also deform slightly to conform to small irregularities in the roundness or shape of the journal. This includes crankshaft deflections that occur in high output engines. The babbitt overlay can also conform under extreme loading to prevent bearing fretting and failure – which may occur if the oil film between the bearing and journal goes away. The babbitt layer will sacrifice itself to save the bearing.

Many race bearings actually have a thinner babbitt layer than those designed for stock applications. This allows the bearing to handle higher loads, but the trade-off is shorter bearing life.

Polymer coated bearings (bi-metal or tri-metal) can also provide an extra layer of protection. Polymer coatings with ingredients such as graphite, molybdenum disulfide and/or Teflon provide lubricity when an oil film is not present. The coating prevents dry starts when an engine has been sitting for a period of time, and it reduces the risk of seizure (at least temporarily) if the engine loses oil pressure while it is running. The added thickness of the coating also provides conformability and embeddability. That’s why most bearing suppliers now offer polymer coated bearings as an option for those who want the extra protection. A polymer coating adds some cost to a set of bearings, but it also adds an extra margin of safety against bearing problems and failures.

Bearing Failures

One thing to keep in mind about bearing failures is that a LOT of things can cause it besides choosing the wrong bearings for the application. The number one cause of most bearing failures is contamination, even in high performance engines.

Lack of cleanliness can kill a high performance engine just as quickly as a machining or assembly error. Metal shot blast, honing residue, grinding debris or metal chips lurking in oil passageways or nooks and crannies of a casting can be deadly to a set of bearings regardless of the brand or type. No coating can protect a set of bearings if a big chunk of metal, silicon carbide, CBN or diamond ends up between a bearing and its journal. Any debris that ends up in the oil will likely end up in the bearings.

Most oil filters will trap debris larger than about 20 microns in size, and a certain percentage of the smaller particles. Synthetic non-woven fiber oil filters will typically eliminate up to 40 percent of the 3 to 5 micron sized particles as the oil flows through the filter. But even that may not be good enough to protect the bearings in a race environment. The extreme loading that takes place inside a race engine during full throttle acceleration can smash the oil film between the bearings and crank journals down to as little as half a micron! That leaves an oil film only a couple of molecules thick to prevent metal-to-metal contact – and almost no clearance for any debris that may have gotten past the oil filter.

Bearing Design Differences

Besides the differences in construction and alloys of high performance bearimgs, there may be additional design changes to improve load carrying capacity such as chamfered oil holes and narrower, but deeper oil grooves or only partial grooves (1/2 to 3/4 of the circumference rather than a full groove all the way around) so the load can be spread across a wider surface. The upper rod bearings and lower main bearings experience the greatest loads, so different oil grooving may be used on the upper and lower bearing halves.

Eccentricity is another factor that can vary depending on the application. Eccentricity is the thickness of the bearing as viewed from the side, with the center typically being somewhat thicker than the area near each parting line. The amount of eccentricity for a stock passenger car engine may be .0002˝ to .0008˝ compared to .0006˝ to .0012˝ for a performance bearing. A typical “H” series racing bearing will have medium eccentricity to control the formation of the oil wedge between the bearing and crank whereas a “P” series bearing will have more eccentricity so it can maintain the oil film at higher RPMs. Stock bearings require less eccentricity because they are operating at lower RPMs.

Many racing cranks have a larger fillet radius at the sides of the journals to improve strength. This requires bearings that are chamfered on the sides to clear the larger radius.

Various polymer coatings can provide an extra layer of lubricity and protection for engine bearings. Just remember, the thickness of the coating affects oil clearances.
Various polymer coatings can provide an extra layer of lubricity and protection for engine bearings. Just remember, the thickness of the coating affects oil clearances.

Quality Control

Quality control at every step in the manufacturing, machining and assembly process is so important. Bearing manufacturers go to great lengths to assure bearings are made to the correct size. Many performance bearings are bored rather than broached because boring produces more consistent sizes.

Manufacturers also try to match bearing shell thicknesses as closely as possible (to within .0001˝ according to some manufacturers). Yet, it’s not unusual to find brand new bearings in the box that are mismarked or the wrong size for the application they are supposed to fit. It doesn’t happen very often, but when it does it can create a real disaster if somebody doesn’t catch the mistake.

The same goes for machining crankshaft journals, main bores and rod bores. If the finished dimensions are not correct, you can’t expect the bearings to fit properly. The bearings may be too tight or too loose in the bores. That’s why rod and main bearing clearances should always be measured with a dial bore gauge, not a simple plastic gauge check.

The clearance is the difference between the inside diameter of the assembled bearings in the connecting rod and main bores minus the outside diameter of the crankshaft rod and main journals.

Insufficient clearance may cause a bearing to bind or seize when the engine is assembled, or it may not receive adequate lubrication if a thick racing oil is used in the engine. Too much oil clearance can cause a dangerous drop in oil pressure, noise and a hammering effect that can pound the bearings to death.

Bearing crush is also important. Some performance bearings are engineered with a little extra crush height so they don’t loosen up. For a stock application, the amount of crush should be .001˝ to .002˝, while that for a performance application should be .002˝ to .004˝. Crush helps hold the bearings in the bores and promotes good heat transfer and cooling. If a bearing is too loose, it may overheat or spin.

If you are building an engine with aluminum rods, keep in mind that aluminum expands more than steel when it gets hot. Consequently, the bearings may not fit as tightly in the rod bore when the engine gets hot. What’s more, over time aluminum rod bores can sometimes tighten up. This happens because the serrated teeth on the mating surfaces of the rod and cap wear into each other, reducing the diameter of the rod bore. Because of this, rod bore diameter, bearing crush fit and bearing oil clearances should all be rechecked after aluminum rods have run for a period of time to see if anything has changed. Any type of rod (steel or aluminum) may also have a fitment issue if the bore is out-of-round or elongated.

Bearing Oil Clearances

One size certainly doesn’t fit all when it comes to bearing oil clearances. Old school engine builders usually prefer to build an engine “loose” and run a heavier oil such as 20W-50 or straight 50 so the bearings can handle more crank flex under load. This works well in drag racing because the crankshaft experiences a lot of twisting and flexing. A little extra clearance is also good in a dirt track engine because the engine runs in a very dirty environment. Yet NASCAR engines are often built with much tighter bearing clearances (.0015˝ to .002˝) because they are using low viscosity synthetic racing oils.

Most rod and main bearings run best with .0007˝ to .001˝ of clearance for every inch of crankshaft journal diameter, or .0015˝ to .002˝ inches of oil clearance for a 2-inch diameter shaft – but these numbers will vary with the oil viscosity and application. Typically, an engine builder might add .0005 inches of additional clearance for a performance motor over what he would normally use with a stock build.

One bearing manufacturer recommends the following oil clearances based on the viscosity of the oil used in the engine:

•  .002 for 20W and 5W-20 oils

• .0025 inches for 30 and 5W-30 oils

 • .0025 to .003 inches for 40W, 10W-40 oils

• .003 to .0035 inches for 50W and 20W-50 racing oils.

As for oil pressure, you only need enough to keep the oil film between the bearings and the journals. The old rule of thumb of having 10 lbs. of oil pressure for every 1,000 RPM is still valid, but some engine builders are going with less to reduce parasitic horsepower losses at the oil pump. An oil pressure reading of 60 PSI at idle may look great on a gauge, but it’s overkill for what most engines need. Most engines don’t need more than about 10 PSI at idle, and can get by with 5 to 7 PSI.

The amount of oil flow will also vary with the application. Aluminum engines tend to run looser and flow more oil than cast iron engines due to the difference in thermal expansion rates. Ditto for aluminum rods. An engine that has piston oilers or supplemental oil feed lines for the rocker arms and valve springs will require more flow and a higher volume oil pump.

Bearings should be installed dry in the bores, then lubricated on the journal surfaces with assembly lube or oil. The engine’s oil system should also be primed before initial start-up to prevent damage caused by a dry start. If you hear any rapping or knocking noises once the engine is running, shut it off. There may be a loose rod cap or excessive bearing clearances that somebody overlooked.

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Debunking Aluminum Rod Myths

 

For as long as connecting rod manufacturers the world over have been using blends of aluminum to create lightweight, high performance rods, said pieces have lived under constant scrutiny regarding their long-term durability and usefulness. Even today, as technology has advanced light years beyond what the early aluminum rod manufacturers believed was possible, it continues. And while these concerns may have been warranted decades ago, those in the industry view them as nothing more than common myths these days. And they are myths they’d like to debunk, once and for all.

GRP Rods is among the industry leaders in connecting rod technology, and produces a complete line of aluminum rods, including those for Pro Stock, Pro Modified, and HEMI pieces for Top Alcohol and Top Fuel engines.

In order to zero in on the tall tales surrounding any discussion of aluminum rods and to help set the story straight, we placed a call to our good friend Brian Scollon at GRP Connecting Rods – one of the most respected and successful manufacturers of aluminum rods for the racing and high performance industry. Considering their experience in everything from Top Fuel Dragsters to muscle cars, suffice it to say, they know a thing or two about what an aluminum rod does and doesn’t do.

Over the years, only a couple of common myths regarding aluminum rods have stood the test of time, and while a “couple” may not seem like that big a deal of a deal, they strike right to the very core of the usefulness of aluminum for construction of such vital components.

Aluminum Rods Stretch, You Say?

From web forums to print magazine articles, virtually anywhere that aluminum rods are discussed, you’ll surely find the topic of rod stretch somewhere in the conversation. Or to be more specific, permanent stretching of the rods. It is the most commonly discussed “con” of choosing aluminum connecting rods for an engine, and according to GRP’s Brian Scollon, is also purely false in this day and age.

“Everyone out there is under the impression that aluminum rods permanently stretch, but this simply is not the case,” said Scollon. “If anything, we see that they actually compress. If there’s something going on, be it a hydraulic situation or just simply not enough rod for the power level, they can compress.” In his 17 years entrenched in the connecting rod business at GRP, Scollon adamantly states that not once has he seen an aluminum rods exhibit signs of permanent stretching.

The amount of time that you can get out of a rod is completely application-dependent, and people tend to group them all into one.

As every engine builder out there is aware, all connecting rods, regardless of their material or construction, stretch under higher RPM use, and aluminum is certainly no different. Tolerances for such stretch are accounted for and combustion chamber measurements are planned out accordingly depending not only on the material, but the process (billet, forged, cast). As a general rule of thumb, aluminum rods tend to stretch less than .010″ more than a steel rod. Thus, if you’re setting the deck of a Big Block for .050″ total piston to head, you’ll want to provide clearance for .060″ when utilizing aluminum rods. GRP actually tests such occurrences in-house by dropping their rods in boiling oil and measuring the growth.

All connecting rods stretch under high RPM use, and aluminum rods will tend to stretch .010″ more than steel with all other variables being the same.

This expansion that aluminum rods endure is attributed to the inherent thermal expansion of aluminum as a material more so than high RPM movement. “We’ve been hearing it for years, and have just never understood where that myth is coming from,” explains Scollon. “Some say that back in the early days with the old rods and some of the other original aluminum rods use to stretch, but they don’t do that anymore.”

Life Insurance

Another common topic that many folks commonly misstate or underestimate is the overall life of aluminum connecting rods. Sure, on average, aluminum rods tend to carry a slightly shorter life expectancy than steel and other materials, but many out there would have you believe that you’ll be chucking a set of rods in your bracket racing engine every few passes like a nitro car. Scollon insists that this too is simply a misconception.

While more extreme applications tend to deliver shorter lifespans on an aluminum rod, milder bracket racing applications can expect hundreds and hundreds of passes out of a set of such rods. This of course is another common and unsubstantiated myth.

“The amount of time that you can get out of a rod is completely application-dependent, and people tend to group them all into one,” says Scollon. “A guy will call us to order rods for a bracket car and someone has told him he can only run an aluminum rod 25 passes before it needs to be replaced. That may be the case in a nitro or blown alcohol car, but in something milder, you can get hundreds and hundreds of passes out of them.”

What it essentially comes down to (and such is the case with all sorts of components), is selecting a rod that’s built for the combination. Even steel rods, while certainly carrying a longer life expectancy than aluminum, won’t last long if a proper part for the horsepower isn’t chosen.

In nitro engines, the compressive load placed upon the rods on the top end of the track is extreme to say the least, limiting their use to 8-10 passes at best. Blown alcohol and Pro Stock engines meanwhile, put a different form of extreme stress on the rods thanks to rotations at or above 10,000 RPM. For these racers, however, the performance benefits outweigh the cost and maintenance.

Aluminum rods in nitro engines will typically last no more than 8-10 runs, thus the reason for teardowns for inspections or replacements between each pass.

But for the weekend warrior bracket racers out there who would be most concerned about connecting rod life, Scollon explains that it’s nothing for a customer to put several hundred to a thousand-plus passes on a set.

Flexing Their Muscles

Think steel rods are stronger than aluminum? Aluminum rod manufacturers would beg to differ. “The topic of overall strength is also very application-dependent, but can we build an aluminum rod stronger than a stock steel rod? Absolutely,” Scollon exclaims.

GRP’s impressive manufacturing facility in Denver, Colorado.

Scollon continued, “If you take a look at the horsepower levels of Top Fuel, Pro Modified and anything of that nature that’s very high horsepower, it’s going to have aluminum rods in it. So it almost seems to be the other way around; that aluminum can take more than steel.” Calling aluminum stronger than steel, however, isn’t necessarily a fair assessment. As Scollon explains, aluminum isn’t stronger per se, but it endures the application better by acting as a shock absorber in powerful engines that need it. So you may be asking at this point how aluminum could be stronger in some cases, yet steel lasts considerably longer.

“If the power level of the application is actually taking the rod past it’s “fatigue life” or the power limit or RPM limit of the rod, it’s going to reduce it’s life, regardless of the material.”

Aluminum rods, while not stronger than steel rods per se, act as a shock absorber of sorts in high horsepower engines, thereby enduring the forces placed upon it better than steel.

If we step away from high horsepower combinations where aluminum is the de facto choice and focus on middle-of-the-road bracket racing engines, GRP and others in the industry believe aluminum has every bit the shelf life that steel does. But is aluminum a great choice for everything? “Absolutely not,” states Scollon.

It’s the aforementioned lighter rotating weight and shock absorbing tendency of aluminum that makes these rods a no-brainer for high horsepower, high RPM, boosted applications and the like. But in street engines, which are classified as low load applications where one might wish to get 100,000 miles or more from their engine, aluminum rods are considered an unnecessary risk of eventual failure over the course of time. Ever the salesman of their products, many aluminum rod manufacturers themselves will steer street car-inquiring customers in the direction of steel, even if it means losing a sale.

“Absolutely not,” states Scollon when asked if aluminum rods are good for every application. The debate rages on in regards to their use in street cars, where some love them, and some wouldn’t even try it with your engine.

And so the debate rages on concerning the use of aluminum rods in a street engine. Scour the ‘net and you’ll find plenty of examples of mild street engines containing aluminum connecting rods with thousands upon thousands of hard, stop-and-go miles on them without fault, only further fueling the never-ending debate amongst enthusiasts and engine builders.

But for the vast majority of combinations specifically intended for racing use, and despite all of the tall tales and myths that you’ve heard, aluminum rods get the job done, and it’s our hope that this piece will in some way help further educate those sitting on the fence in their selection of steel or aluminum connecting rods in their race engine to make the proper decision for their needs and pocketbook.

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